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With over three decades of experience, Master Chef Christian Delouvrier's zoetic French style is very much in sync with this grand French restaurant - named for Mademoiselle de Lespinasse, who had a famous Paris salon where philosophers, nobles, and diplomats dined during the reign of Louis XV. Located in the luxurious five-star St. Regis Hotel, the opulently appointed Lespinasse Restaurant is an architectural renaissance of atmosphere and attentiveness that would spoil anyone. From its Limoges china, Tiffany silver and Waterford chandeliers suspended from the heaven-scape mural in the St. Regis Roof dining room, guests enjoy contemporary French cuisine from this chef who has already wooed the world, yet remains humble in the wake of continued accolades. Chef Delouvrier's first influences were his mother and grandmother,
who passed on family recipes and the pride that comes from good food,
prepared well and served for the pleasure of others. At age 15, he decided
to pursue cooking as After arriving in New York in 1971, Chef Delouvrier worked
as head chef of the Swiss Hutte, a small inn located in eastern New
York State. Over the next seven years, Delouvrier honed his skills in
New York's finest restaurants, including Chef at the Chateau Richelieu
and Executive Sous Chef at Windows on the World. In 1981, he opened
the famed Maurice restaurant in the Hotel Parker Meridian, in collaboration
with his mentor, Chef Alain Senderens. The Maurice became one of New
York City's best French restaurants, receiving three stars from the
New York Times in 1986 and setting a new standard in hotel dining: "For
the first time, a hotel restaurant makes it to the Forbes top - Maurice",
declared the four star rating in Forbes Magazine (1985). In 1991, The Essex House/Hotel Nikko turned to Chef Delouvrier
to open Les Célébritiés. As part of his preparation, he traveled extensively
in the Far East to capture the nuances of Asian cuisine. Les Célébritiés
opened immediately to a three star review in the New York Times, in
which the menu was described as, "a Zenlike harmony of East and
West that is a joy to experience." This new chapter at Lespinasse for Executive Chef Delouvrier
is one of delight and continued critical acclaim from the New York Times,
to The Wine Spectator to Gault Millau. The menu is presented as a selection
of prix-fixe menus so that diners may fully experience a complete tasting
of Chef Delouvrier's seasonal creations, which the Chef views as, "always
a work in progress, constantly striving to reach the next level of perfection."
The menu is complemented by an award-winning wine list. Chef Christian Delouvrier does not view himself as a "Celebrity
Chef" and is a rather private man who we will not likely see on
the Food Channel or demonstrating his cooking abilities on other television
magazine shows. While you might see Chef Delouvrier greeting guests
in the dining room, as he does several times each night, he is a dedicated
chef, who chooses to work behind the scenes, devoted to his artful culinary
skills and in constant pursuit of ensuring to please his guests. He
is also a very generous man; generous to charities culinary and philanthropic;
never forgetting the industry and the people who have helped him; and
never taking his success for granted. RR: In your opinion, have we caught-up to the great chefs
of Europe, and where does New York City stand as it relates to the top
culinary destinations of the world? CD: I would say yes, we have definitely caught up to the
Europeans in terms of cooking. America has come such a long way, and
today we have many truly great American chefs. This was not always the
case. In terms of New York, I would suggest that we are the greatest
restaurant city in the world. There is no other place that can match
the diversity and ethnicity of this City. We have something for every
segment of our population. And we do many things extremely well. I love
New York, and while I realize that it's not always the easiest place
to live, I can't imagine working and living in any place else. RR: Is there any area on the planet more competitive or
more demanding than this City? CD: It is competitive and demanding, but that's what draws
us here. I find the people to be extremely friendly, and I find the
competition to be what I would term respectful. I do think we have a
great deal of respect for each other and we have so many talented people
working here. The pace is faster, and perhaps our customers are more
demanding, but for me, it's the ideal working environment. RR: You mention the word demanding. How would you characterize
the New York restaurant customer? CD: Of course, in this kind of restaurant and this kind
of city, we are constantly serving people who visit us from other areas.
But like our local clientele, all restaurant customers have become more
sophisticated and knowledgeable when it comes to good food and certainly
wine, which is very important to us. This is the best thing that can
happen to fine dining restaurants because our customers have more appreciation
for what it takes to produce truly outstanding food, and I do believe
that their learning process serves to make the dining experience more
enjoyable. RR: These are the days of the so-called celebrity chefs,
and New York certainly has its share, yet I can't see Christian Delouvrier
in this category. Is there a part of you that would like to be, let's
say more visible? CD: No, I don't see myself as a celebrity chef. I enjoy
spending my time where I believe I am most valuable and most productive,
and I suppose, happiest, and that's in the kitchen. I have great respect
for what other chefs do, but the celebrity thing is a part of the business
that holds little interest for me. RR: I would be curious to know your thinking regarding
Alain Ducasse and his arrival in New York. CD: I have so much respect for this man. I see him as one
of the most talented and influential people in the history of the restaurant
world, and in my mind, his presence makes New York even better. His
presence automatically elevates fine dining in New York. But I do understand
that people expect so much, and sometimes it's impossible to live up
to people's expectations. RR: Does the media expect too much? CD: Let me put it this way... given time, Alain Ducasse
will emerge as the great restaurant and restaurateur that he is, and
that he has always proven to be. RR: Here we sit in this incredible dining room, talking
to a prominent four-star New York chef. Can my audience actually relate
to your problems and your challenges and the reality of being in a situation
such as yours? CD: It's the amazing thing about this business that no
matter what kind of restaurant you are dealing with, the one thing we
all have in common is that everyone in every situation has the opportunity
to do things better. And by that I mean that you should strive to serve
the best products possible. I believe that it's possible to have great
fast food restaurants, or whatever your concept might be. It always
comes down to ingredients and preparation and what you really want to
accomplish. Our industry is so diverse, but we have problems just like
every restaurant has problems. We can certainly relate to each other. RR: In terms of ingredients, I can remember a prominent
chef saying that cuisine is basically seventy to seventy-five percent
ingredients and the rest is technique. Would this be a fair statement? CD: It is true. A great restaurant must be committed to
using the best ingredients possible, and the search is an ongoing process
and one of the most time consuming and yet exciting things that we do. RR: What complicates the buying process? CD: We do so much with the local farmers, and this naturally
makes the buying process much more intense. One must visit these farms
and we deal directly with the owners, and there are all kinds of logistics
and arrangements that must be worked out, but the effort is certainly
worth the time and effort. RR: You mention working with farmers... can the average
restaurant consider this? CD: I believe they can. There are farms almost everywhere
in this country, and the question would be the willingness on the part
of a chef to get involved in this process. I can just tell you that
when I arrived in New York City in 1973, it was very exciting, but in
my opinion, the food wasn't what I would consider special. In 1978,
I worked in Paris and didn't return to New York until early 1981. But
in that short time, the food had improved dramatically, and that was
because of the independent farmers. There was a new availability of
things like veal, lamb, fruits, and organic vegetables. It was wonderful,
and it was more like France than the New York I had so recently left. RR: And today, are you still able to get the quality necessary
to do what you do? CD: It keeps getting better. You asked me earlier if we
had caught up with the European chefs. We have improved our techniques,
and we have produced a host of truly wonderful chefs, but one of the
main reasons is that our ingredients have improved so dramatically. RR: What's next for Christian Delouvrier? CD: What's next? I'm heading for my kitchen and getting
ready for tonight's dinner. Beyond that, I just want to continue to
enjoy precisely what I'm doing.
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