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How Much Is It Per Pound? by John Bowerman-Davies
I always cringe when that is the first question from a restaurateur,
and my response is always the same - "Is price more important
than taste"?
Consider the following - restaurants usually sell a cup of coffee
for about one dollar. And when they pay $6.00 per pound for coffee,
their cost per cup is about ten cents, (which means their profit
is ninety cents). So the difference in their profit between $6.00
per pound and $3.00 per pound is the incredible sum of five cents
per cup. However, the real difference will be in the taste of
the coffee.
The taste difference is even greater with coffee brewed in an
espresso machine since an espresso machine is an amplifier. It
will highlight a really good coffee, but conversely, it will also
amplify any faults with that coffee.
Remember, espresso is not a type of bean, but is a method of brewing
coffee. Espresso coffee is tightly packed (7 grams), through
which hot water (198 degrees F) is forced at high mechanical pressure
(132 psi). The resultant one and a half fluid ounces is the elixir
known as espresso, and many countries could be conquered before
9:00 am if their population were to be deprived of this magic
"elixir"!
A commonly mistaken thought is that coffee used in espresso machines
should be dark roasted - WRONG! When beans are darkly over-roasted,
all the oils come to the surface giving the impression that the
roasted coffee has been coated with grease. These oils contain
much of the flavor of the coffee and when brought to the surface
by over-roasting, they will be lost when handled, stored, and
of course, when they are ground. Since coffee is really "cooked"
three times, (the first during roasting; second when ground since
the grinder creates heat; and thirdly when brewed), over-roasting
will produce a bitter/burnt taste when brewed as an espresso.
Let me return to my original point as to why better coffee beans
cost more. Coffee beans are an agrarian product, and like all
crops they are subject to climate, soil, and growing and harvesting
methods. Coffee plants that are treated better will produce a
better crop.
Coffee harvested by hand will produce a higher quality product.
A mechanical harvester only goes through once plucking ripe and
unripe berries simultaneously. Manual harvesting takes place
over a period of time and the pickers only pluck the ripe fruit,
avoiding the unripe berries.
Sorting takes place at the plantation AND at the roaster. The
better the sorting, the better the coffee. This process begins
with the removal of stones (which can ruin your grinder), branches,
leaves, poisonous spiders, (just joking, I think), and continues
with the removal of broken, misshapen, and bad beans. This is
critical since a broken or misshapen piece could roast quicker
than the other beans, and will affect the quality of the finished
batch.
Blending must take place after roasting. Different batches of
beans from different plantations and countries will roast at different
times and temperatures. Throwing different green beans together
will result in some beans being under-roasted while others are
burnt. Expert blending (or cupping as it is known) of roasted
beans will ensure the best and most consistent flavor.
Packing the perfectly roasted and blended beans will ensure that
you are sold the product in peak condition. Coffee begins to
oxidize and lose its flavor and aroma as soon as the roasting
process is finished. It's essential that the coffee is packed
in lightproof and airproof bags that have been nitrogen flushed
and/or vacuum packed. The bag should also have a unilateral valve
to allow carbon dioxide to escape.
From the rambling monologue above, it's easy to see that short-cuts
can be made to the coffee preparation process, but quality will
only cost a few pennies more per cup. And remember - your coffee
may be the last item that your customer tastes before leaving
your restaurant.
Still curious about Coffee, check out our Coffee Alphabet.
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