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The New Chef
Of all the trends in the restaurant industry over the last decade, the
90's have perhaps been most noted as the "Decade of the Chef".
In the past, the Chef was for the most part an obscure position, with
those in the field relatively unknown by the public, underpaid and
often unappreciated. Then the public relations experts figured that
by marketing the Chef, the independents would have a leg up on the
chains that couldn't market specific personnel. This ploy worked so
well that some of these media darlings became SuperChefs, and grew
their newfound fame into chains and even retail food lines.
The result of all this is that the public now seems more interested in
the movement of known Chefs than in new restaurants. Restaurateurs
are all vying for the same known Chefs, and committing huge free agent
dollars to acquire these superstars. Hotels and casinos are paying
dollars well out of proportion to economics just to gain affiliations
with a Chef who will not only drive restaurant revenue, but hotel
occupancy and casino handle as well.
So how does a restaurateur compete? How does an independent
restaurant with a single 150-seat upscale take advantage of this
trend? Some of you probably don't care to compete on this basis, and
there are lots of reasons to avoid making your Chef the centerpiece of
your restaurant. (I'll discuss this later.) But if you do, you have
two basic choices: Hire the Name or Grow Your Own. Before we explore
these options, we must first determine the proper ingredients for a
SuperChef.
To become a SuperChef, an individual must of course have the culinary
and management skills, but must also have creativity and personality.
Creativity goes beyond presentation skills, to a willingness, desire
and ability to innovate in preparation, flavors and textures. And to
be attractive to the media a SuperChef candidate must have a
distinguishable personality and be relatively well spoken.
So that's the basic recipe. To make it happen, you can:
Hire the Name. Chefs can of course be bought. Such a move can bring
instant acclaim and hordes of new patrons to your door. However,
aside from the expense, this type is prone to leaving for a better
offer at any time, or spreading him or herself too thin over several
projects. Best advice here: Make the Chef a partner in the business
and have an ironclad employment agreement.
Grow Your Own. This is the preferred route if you can do it. You can
usually get someone who is more loyal and besides, it should cost
less. If you have a Chef who could grow into a SuperChef, then go for
it. Do the following:
- Hire a PR firm to get the Chef in the media as often as possible
Some restaurateurs get a chill going down their spine when they think
of affiliating with or creating a SuperChef. With very good reason.
As an example, consider the plight of a restaurant that hires a Chef,
puts his name on the front door, builds their entire marketing
campaign around him, and then watches him leave. Or the restaurant
that develops a menu around a chef's capabilities only to see him walk
out the door with the kitchen staff and all hope of recreating special
menu items.
However, despite many restaurateurs' distaste for such a SuperChef,
the public loves them. They will flock to their restaurants on
Tuesday nights, and gladly wait an hour on Thursdays. Best of all,
the named Chef is an independent restaurants best offense against a
chain's clout. It is a rewarding yet treacherous road, yet isn't
that what our business is all about.
Page One (Ralph, David Farkas, Joan Stewart, I.S., Benedikt Morak) |
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